yamasakinursery.com Blog

This is an awesome article courtesy of Urban Garden Magazine on Indoor/Hydro Gardening. Sorry for the length but it does answer many questions. Enjoy and as always if you have questions give us a call here at the nursery.

Hydroponics is the science of growing plants without soil. Plants grown in hydroponic systems will develop faster and they tend to produce higher yields. As a result, hydroponics is used extensively in commercial agriculture.

But what about a hydroponics set-up in your home? Does the idea of growing your favorite plants in a hydro system seem a bit high-tech or alien to you? Or do you harbor misgivings about growing plants in anything other than good old-fashioned dirt?

Hydroponics in a Nutshell
The word “Hydroponics” comes from Greek, “hydro-ponos”. Literally it can be translated as “water (hydro) at work”. So what “work” is the water doing? Well, as it happens, quite a lot! Hydroponic plants are not grown in soil. Instead all the nutrients they need are supplied directly from the water. This is achieved by first dissolving special hydroponic nutrients into the water – the resulting “mix” is often referred to as a nutrient solution. It contains all the essential food in a directly accessible form. This allows hydroponic plants to put less energy into creating root systems (as all the food they need is right there) and more energy into fruits and flowers!

Hydroponics is way too complicated.
“I’m just an everyday gardener. Just give me plain old pots and soil! Hydroponics is too technical and difficult for most people to get to grips with! It involves too many expensive parts, pieces and gadgets and things can easily go wrong. Also, there’s a bewildering choice of system options and too many decisions to make!”

FALSE!
Hydroponics is quite simple with a little thought and a realistic plan for your growing goals. It’s simply the science or craft of growing plants without soil. That’s all. It’s about growing plants with water, thereby providing complete access to the nutrients and additives in your solutions. The environment (temperature, humidity, and CO2) is the same in hydro or soil, so this is not an additional concern related to running a hydro system. Regularly test the pH of your nutrient solution using a digital pH pen or a manual test kit. Both are available very cheaply at your hydro store. You should drain and clean your nutrient reservoir regularly – ideally once a week, especially important as your plants mature.

If things go wrong in hydro, you can lose your whole crop.
“If a pump fails, all my plants could die within a day, even hours! Soil is far more forgiving than hydroponics.”

TRUE!
Hydroponics gives the grower ultimate control over their plants’ nutrition. The observant grower can respond to subtle changes in the appearance of their plants almost instantaneously. But that greater precision in control comes with a decreased tolerance for neglect. In most hydro-based systems you can lose the crop rather quickly if things go seriously awry. I don’t mean to be alarmist, just realistic! There are limited factors that can go wrong and they are readily avoidable.If your environment is correctly adjusted (temperature, humidity, CO2 and air flow), then the two most common problems associated with hydro-based systems are: nutrient deficiency due to incorrect pH levels and pump failure (resulting in plants not getting water.)
In hydroponics, pH is king! For most plants, it’s vital to maintain a relative zone of 5.8-6.1 at all times. pH governs which nutrients can be absorbed, and at what rate. If reservoir pH is off, even a perfect nutrient solution will contain elements that are “unavailable” to the plants for uptake. A small pH change in a hydro-based system is very important as far as your plants are concerned. The pH scale is exponential, so don’t think for one minute that a 0.1 shift in pH isn’t a big deal – it is! pH can be thought of as a “door” between the root zone and the nutrients. If your pH swings out of range, you are effectively locking that food away from your plants. Check and adjust your pH daily.

Pump failure also poses a real threat to a hydroponic system – especially when using non-restrictive mediums that can dry out quickly, such as clay pebbles or grow rocks. It is imperative to check your plants daily for proper moisture. Some hydroponic growers prefer to use rockwool or coco coir as a growing medium. These retain more water and allow therefore afford the grower a wider margin for error should a pump malfunction occur. Some hydroponic systems work using multiple pumps as a fail-safe.

Hydroponic produce doesn’t taste or smell as good as soil-grown produce.

FALSE!
This is a contentious area so let’s tread carefully! While it can be more challenging to achieve a full-bodied taste and aroma from a hydroponics based grow, it can be done. Some crops are undeniably more suited to hydroponics than others. Keep in mind that it is significantly easier to get a vastly LARGER YIELD from hydro than soil! Now while some veteran soil growers will contest that they can match the yields in hydro, veteran hydro growers can certainly produce crops with as much aroma and taste as soil. It really comes down to experience. If you are shooting for yields first, it’s easier for a keen beginner to achieve more production out of a hydro-based system than from soil. So how do you get the best taste and aroma from a hydroponics system? First you have to start with great plant genetics. After all, everything starts in the genes! You need to find a variety that is known for yielding fruits or flowers noted for their smell or taste. Then, consider adding organic elements to your hydro system, you can create the same robust full-bodied flavors associated with soil grown plants. A grower will need to use humic acids, guanos, kelp extracts, amino acids and microbes to create that craftsman quality flavor.

Hydroponic produce is full of chemicals.

FALSE!
This is a common misconception. First off, what chemicals? Nutrients come in all shapes and sizes these days. Growers today can certainly grow purely organic in hydroponics – a technique known as “bioponics.” What are disparagingly referred to as “chemical fertilizers” are usually made from food grade minerals, which are simply purified elements. These are the same elements that come from the ground, rocks or dead organisms. The only thing that makes them “unnatural” is that chemical chelators are used in some hydroponics solutions to facilitate the absorption of minerals and to enable minerals to remain in the solution bottle without interacting with other minerals in order to avoid unwanted precipitates. These chelators are all food-grade and are used in most foods we eat daily. There are a wide range of organic and semi-organic products that use chelators in very low dosages or use only humic, fulvic, and amino devices (organic based chelation) to help preserve nutrients in solution and make them more readily available to plants. Many growers (using both soil and hydroponics) improve the taste of their crops by watering with pure water during the final week or two before harvesting. This is a technique known as “flushing”. And guess what? Flushing your crop is a whole lot easier in hydro!

Hydroponic produce is less nutritious than organic.

FALSE!
If you feed your food well, it will feed you well. Food grown in hydroponic systems with the correct availability of nutrients will, in turn, contain as much nutrition as organic produce.

Root systems don’t thrive in hydroponics.

FALSE!
Root systems tend to be smaller in hydroponics, but that’s because the roots don’t have to do as much work! All the water, nutrients and oxygen are right there in a well-designed hydroponics system. Sterile hydroponic conditions can lack beneficial microbes that protect and nurture the root zone. But this can easily be overcome. Hydroponics was conceived as a means to provide roots maximum aeration and nutrient uptake capabilities by bypassing the buffers and mediators found in soil. Nutrients are available in directly accessible form. They do not need to be “broken down” as in organics. Early hydroponics focused on sterility; ensuring “clean” nutrient solutions were devoid of any organisms (pathogenic or beneficial). However, researchers experienced difficulty in finding a good sterilizing (oxidizing) agent that wouldn’t also damage the root system. Early hydroponics pioneers didn’t realize that water temperature greatly affected the relative dissolved oxygen levels held within the water. Water at cooler temperatures holds the requisite oxygen levels in which plants thrive and also deters more pathogenic anaerobic (non-Oxygen loving) microbe growth. Today’s hydroponicists now use water chillers, oxygenators, beneficial microbe solutions and specific hormones to keep roots brilliantly healthy through an entire grow cycle – creating root systems just a strong as those found in the best soil mixes.

Hydroponics isn’t organic.

FALSE!
Yes it can be! There are a plethora of different organic-based hydroponic nutrients and additives as well as organic-based mediums that enable growers to produce completely organic hydroponic crops. Remember, any medium that doesn’t employ soil is essentially a hydroponically-based medium as you are relying on the water to do the work of carrying the plant food. Coconut coir based products are a firm favorite with hydroponic growers. They hold onto organic materials such as humates and slowly release them back to the plant for increased flavor and aroma. Perlite and vermiculite-based mediums are also hydroponic and all natural. Rockwool, another popular hydroponic growing medium, is also derived from completely natural sources.

Hydro systems are expensive.
FALSE!
This is a major misconception. Often, people think of hydroponics as extravagant aeroponic systems loaded with PVC, white plastic, specialty fittings, etc. The truth is that a great hydro setup can be built on a shoestring budget. It’s all about the tray and the pump. Those are the two big expenses – and they’re not even that expensive! I highly recommend purchasing a tray with good drainage “lanes” built into it. (This is a tray that has been specially molded to maximize drainage.) Then obtain a pump large enough to run your system. A simple, cheap rubber-maid storage bin works great as a reservoir and can be purchased at a hardware store for under twenty bucks. Hell, that’s how I started! Your choice of media is also important (common choices include rockwool, coco, and clay pebbles), a working pump (don’t skimp on that), and a good watering schedule that’s dialed into the absorbency of your choice of growth media (the more absorbent your growth media is, the less frequently it needs to be irrigated.)
It’s absolutely not about spending an exorbitant amount of money!

All my friends are growing in soil, so I should too.

WHATEVER!
Growers learn from other growers. But just because someone you know is doing soil, it doesn’t mean that it’s the best medium for you, or anybody else! Over the last ten years soil has experienced a large resurgence due to vastly improved new mixes. These mixes boast increased aeration, they are made from better sources of organic materials (guanos, castings, fish, blood and bone meals, etc.) and employ other specialty ingredients to increase growth, flavor and aroma. However, a good hydro grow will still give most growers a larger yield and, when done properly, just as much flavor and aroma as any soil grow. Taking this into consideration, it could greatly benefit you to go against the grain and rock that hydro! Dare to be a little different and don’t be afraid to be a pioneer!

Okay – so, why hydro?
The advantages of hydroponics include:
• Higher yields.
• Increased growth rates.
• More control over nutrient and water levels.
• Many systems automate watering.
• Less maintenance, less labor.
• You can leave your plants unattended for longer.
• Soil borne diseases are virtually eliminated.
• While removing soil-grown crops from the ground effectively kills them, hydroponically grown crops such as lettuce can be packaged and sold while still alive, greatly increasing the length of freshness once purchased.
• Fewer pesticides are required.
• Edible crops are not contaminated with soil.
• Water use is reduced when using re-circulating systems, sometimes by 80% or more!
• Many hydroponic systems provide your plants with more nutrition while at the same time using less energy and space.

Spring might not be here yet, but that’s no reason to put off getting your hands dirty. February is the perfect time to start seeds indoors for spring flower and vegetable gardens. Here’s what you need to get started:

A strong light source. Shop lights with fluorescent tubes, available from hardware stores, are an easy and affordable option. A combination of warm and cool lights works perfectly for seed starting. Just make sure that lights are suspended from chains so they are easy to adjust—the light source needs to be 1-2 inches above the seedlings. Placing the lights too far away from the seedlings will result in thin, leggy plants that won’t mature properly.

A good heat source. If you’re starting plants in a chilly attic or basement, you’ll need a little heat. Many summer vegetable seeds simply won’t germinate if temperatures are cold. Yamasaki’s will soon (by Friday) be receiving in everything you need for your indorr gardening project!

A great seed-starting mix like Light Warrior. Seeds germinate best in a grow medium that stays uniformly damp and is light enough to allow easy root development. Light Warrior offers the added benefit of beneficial microbes to stimulate root growth and enhance fertilizer uptake, humic acid to help in seed germination, and earthworm castings to help plants thrive.

Grow Big Liquid Plant Food to nourish seedlings once they start to germinate. Young plants need a complete nutrient solution to get them off to the right start, so stock up now and plan to start feeding seedlings about five days after you plant them. For seedlings, use a lower dose than package instructions.

Stop by Yamasakis as mentioned we will soon be your indoor gardening headquarters as well. Everything that you’ve grown to expect from us with Fox Farm will now by available in the hydro area as well.

Check out this new addition coming in this spring from a excellent grower we use in the Pacific Northwest. This tree is a stunner that will be an welcome addition to any landscape!!

Here what J. Frank Schmidt the grower has to say about this stunner!!

Crimson Spire™ Oak melds the best characteristics of its White and English Oak heritage to produce a fast-growing, hardy, columnar tree that’s a great fit for streetscapes and landscape settings. Fastigiate habit and adaptability are inherited from English Oak (Quercus robur), while its dark green, mildew-resistant foliage and red fall color are inherited from the White Oak (Quercus alba) parent.
A fast growth rate makes this rugged oak a good choice for anchoring newer landscapes. It reaches about 45 feet in height with a 15-foot spread in 20 years in a typical urban landscape setting. Dense foliage creates living screens for blocking unsightly views and muffling traffic sounds.

Proven adaptable to a wide range of climates and growing conditions, Crimson Spire™ Oak is appreciated by growers for its ease of care, and by landscape designers for its columnar form and stately appearance.

Columnar form is a perfect fit for narrow or confined spaces. Planted alone, in groves, or in rows, it’s the perfect vertical design element.

This fast growing, cold hardy, drought tolerant and disease resistant tree adapts to varied soils and tough urban growing conditions.

Rich, dark green leaves stay fresh and bright through the heat of summer, turning rusty red to bright red in mid to late autumn.

Ok, with all the heavy winds we are receiving in the foothills this week I’m sure several of you have experienced some broken limbs and branches on your trees. The inportant thing now is to safely remove those limbs. If tangled in power lines call in a professional to remove do not attempt to remove yourself.

For those limbs you can deal with on your own, create a clean cut on the tree. We recommend sealing the cut/wound with a pruning seal to prevent any infestation come spring. Nowe maybe the time you may want to shape the tree as well, more often then not the branch that breaks effects the cosmetic look of the tree. Seal the additional cuts you make with pruning seal as well, a little effort now may safe you a big hassle come spring.

Now is also time to start thinking insect control for those beautiful maples, ash and evergreen trees. Basically any non fruiting tree in your yard is subject to attack by a wide variety of insects come spring. One of the most effective products we have found for insect control is Bayer 12 month Tree and Shrub. Not only is this a simple product to use it provided that protection systemically for up to 12 months.

For those of you with Japanese Maples, though these are beautiful additions to any garden they also are very prone to borers. A borer infestation can slowly kill your beautiful maple in a season. Bayer Tree and Shrub provides 12 month protection from borers and other harmful insects. Just one application per year can provide adequete protection to ensure that you have a safe healthy tree.

As mentioned this product is safe to use on all non fruiting trees and shrubs. Easy to apply and very user friendly we think its a smart addition to your gardening routine!

So in my last blog we talked about going green and really how simple it is to reduce your carbon footprint by simply looking in your yard. So now let’s go even further by looking in your garden shed and or garage. We all have those half used bags of fertilizer from days gone by, come on I know a few of you have those 20 lb bags of Sulphate of Ammonia that you used to green up your lawn once or twice.

Take a good hard look at all that stuff; chances are the major part of what’s on your shelf is not organic, not green friendly and in general not good for Mother Earth. I’ll bet more then a handful of you went out last spring and spread that popular weed and feed all over your lawn. Even more of you bought that garden sprayer with the product that creates miracles in your yard and diligently sprayed it regularly all over your garden. Am I right???

Ok so we’ve all gone out and planted a tree or two to help reduce our carbon footprint. Maybe were even composting, so far so good, but then we go out and spray our roses with insecticide, fertilize our lawn with chemicals, and plant our gardens with that ever so popular soil that’s “Super”. But is it all organic? Is it all earth friendly? Did we just negate all the progress we made in reducing our carbon footprint planting those trees? Chances are yes!

We all see them on TV or at those big box stores, they provide miracles, they’re super, or maybe they’re the best. Fertilizers, soils, insecticides and weed control products all promise lots of things but are they truly organic, are they safe? I talked about spreading that weed and feed on your lawn or spaying the product that produces miracles all over your garden, but what I did not mention is that when you water the residue of those and other products get into the runoff and subsequently into the water supply via the storm drains. That residue can pollute not only our steams, rivers and lakes but can be toxic to fish and wildlife. Not to mention us!

It used to mean that being organic in your garden meant expensive not so effective products. Today that no longer is the case. Organic soils and fertilizers such as those by Fox Farm are safe and effective. They provide nutrition to the plant without releasing toxic chemicals into the soil. Monterey is an excellent choice when looking at organic insect and weed control, their products such as Sluggo Plus are a staple in many gardens. And Serenade is a top quality organic for disease, fungus and mold control.

So to decrease your carbon footprint even further, replace those old bags of fertilizer and bottles of insecticides in your shed with safe effective organics. Remember though dispose of unused and unwanted products safely. If you are fertilizing edibles remember that fertilizer or insecticide will end up in the fruit. Do you or your family want to consume chemicals? Using organics insures safe and healthy fruit. Make the earth a better place, think green and go organic!!!

You can’t watch the news anymore without hearing about America’s big push to go green. Companies are announcing daily their new plans to be green and reduce their carbon footprint. I often load materials into customer’s cars and more often now see people driving hybrids, they usually have their reusable grocery bags in the back as well. Now don’t get me wrong I think this is incredibly important. Anything we do as a society to reduce our impact on the environment is a step in the right direction.

Should we all not be concerned in leaving our planet in better shape then when we got it? Do our children and grandchildren deserve to enjoy those beautiful sunny spring days, the crystal clear waters of lakes such as Tahoe? Of course they do, so with us making an effort today tomorrow can be a brighter “GREENER” future.

All this has made me realize what a huge impact we can make on reducing our personal carbon footprint right in our own yards. Plants, trees and shrubs are not only green friendly but they provide oxygen, some provide food and nutrition, they assist in cooling our homes in the summer and in some cases are instrumental in removing toxins and pollutants from the soil. A single mature tree can absorb carbon dioxide at a rate of 48 lbs. /year and release enough oxygen back into the atmosphere to support 2 human beings.

So think about it if we all planted one single tree what a difference we could make in our planet. Reducing your carbon footprint can be as simple as planting a beautiful dogwood in your yard, reduce it even further by planting a fruit tree, then not only are you getting the benefits of the tree but you reap the reward of the harvest for your family and friends. Not that difficult, right?

It just makes sense! Being earth friendly does not mean you have to spend a fortune, it does not require huge sacrifices, you can be green just by looking around your home. Plant a tree or two, compost your yard waste, take a look at an effective organic green waste composting system such as a O’Donnells Worm Composting Bin. Recycle, papers, cans and bottles. Get the whole family involved in making your home GREENER! Now go plant a tree!!

So now let’s go into that garden shed or garage?? We’ll cover that on my next blog !

Go GREEN Instead of Red This Valentine’s Day
We Urge Consumers to Give Sustainable Gifts Rather Than Traditional Items That End Up in the Trash

While Valentine’s Day is often associated with gifts of fresh roses, balloons, cards and boxes of candy, we are urging local customers to think “green” by considering more durable and sustainable alternatives for their Feb. 14 gift-giving. The idea of the holiday is to share your sentiments with those you care about – not to create additional waste that ends up in a landfill. There are a number of gestures you can make to celebrate the holiday without generating additional waste … it truly is easy to think green. Here are some “green” alternatives to traditional Valentine’s Day gifts:

Instead of… …
Fresh Cut Flowers…..Give Potted plants, flowers or trees that can be transplanted into a garden. Remember a living gift is not only earth friendly it is a gift that will give enjoyment for years to come. Did you know that two simple houseplants in a room can increase the air quality significantly in your home?

Instead of… …
Valentine’s Cards….Give E-mail greetings or a photo with your message written on the back

Instead of… …
Boxes of Candy….Give a beautiful blueberry plant or dwarf citrus plant. Either of these gifts are health heart friendly alternatives that will lasy years longer then that box of chocolate.

On any gift-giving occasion we always encourage giving gifts that aren’t disposable – whether it’s a durable,re-usable gift, a gift card or an activity.By thinking creatively you can come up with the perfect gift for your sweetheart and also for the environment.

Decrease your carbon footprint this Valentines Day and let us show you how!!!

Bareroot Season is Here!

Many people love bareroot season, they load themselves up with a huge variety of fruits, berries and roses. So if you plan on getting into the bareroot craze its important to remember the key to success is preperation. It is also important to remember bareroot planting does not provide you with the instant gratification a containerized plant will. For instance a bareroot blueberry may take 3-5 years to bear fruit where as a 2 gallon containerized blueberry will bear fruit that season. So when selecting and planning your garden keep that in mind.

Follow our suggestions below to help make your bareroot adventure successful and bountiful.

1. Keep the roots wrapped or covered in soil until you are ready to plant. Even short exposure to sunlight can shock the root system.

2. Now get out your secret weapon: Big Bloom Liquid Organic Fertilizer. That’s right—it’s not just for flowers. Big Bloom is actually a great root drench that will get bareroot plants off to an amazing start. In a bucket, mix 1/4 cup of Big Bloom per gallon of room temperature water. Soak the roots in the mixture for 1 hour prior to planting, being sure to keep the roots out of sunlight.

3. While your roots are soaking, dig a hole 2-3 times the size of the root ball when it’s spread out. Fill with a mixture of FoxFarm’s Original Planting Mix or Happy Frog Soil conditioner, combined with native soil.

4. Mix with our dry Peace of Mind Starter Organic Fertilizer according to package directions.

5. After your roots have finished their spa treatment, carefully place each bareroot plant in its hole, making sure to spread the roots out and cover them well. Water immediately. That’s all you need to do until you start to see new growth in the spring. To get the most out of those bareroot plants, start a regular feeding schedule with American Pride, our time-release fertilizer for roses and other flowering shrubs and trees, or Marine Cuisine, the time-release blend that works best for blueberries, trees, and evergreens.

Best of luck to you and remember if you have any problems or questions we are always free to assist you!

I recently attended a seminar on plant patents by a California based company called PLANT HAVEN. Plant Haven patents plants for growers assuring that the creator and developer of the plant are compensated for there plant when it hits the market. One of the plants they spoke about was this gem the Phormium Jester. What a stunning plant it is with its bright cherry color. The following is a description of the plant courtesy of San Marcos Growers. We hope toi see this stunner in our nursery this spring!

Phormium ‘Jubilee’ PP19,059 – A New Zealand Flax cultivar that grows to 3 with slightly arching long leaves that have a green center and pinkish-red margins on the upper surface and are entirely red below. Plant in full sun to light shade. Can tolerate fairly dry conditions (coastal) but looks best with occasional to regular irrigation. Hardy to 15-20 F. Possibly root hardy below these temperatures but with severe foliage damage unless protected. A very interesting color combination and a bit stronger with less reversions than the parent plant, Phormium ‘Jester’. This plant was discovered by Arroyo Grande nurseryman Christopher Chaney who in 2000 purchased a plant labeled Phormium ‘Red Heart’, known in the trade as Phormium ‘Jester’, from Monterey Bay Nursery where he then worked as an outside salesman. Phormium ‘Jester’ is an attractive cultivar that is predominantly pale red on its upper surface with narrow green margins. Mr. Chaney divided his plant but noted one of his divisions had a fan of leaves with the reverse coloration, having strong red margins and a green central stripe on the upper surface and an entirely red underside. In 2003 he selected and rooted this fan and has since subsequently propagated repeatedly from the original, using the method of division. It was co-introduced into the nursery trade by Chris Chaney and Monterey Bay nursery and received a U.S. Plant Patent in July 2008. It is marketed in the U.S by PlantHaven. The description above is based on our research and observations of this plant growing in our nursery and in our own and other Santa Barbara gardens.

Here in the foothills our gardens suffer from those winter doldrums. Very little color if any is left in our yards especially this year after our early December snow and deep freeze. Here’s a nice addition to any garden, adds a little bright color and tolerates our extreme temperatures.

Choisya ternate ‘Sundance’ aka golden Mexican Orange has brilliant bright yellow foliage with white summer flowers. Slow growing reaching 4’-5’ tall at maturity. An evergreen that will take partial sun turns yellow in the cooler months and greener in the warm summer months. Feedback from customers is that deer tend to avoid it, nibbling only when newly planted.

A Choisya ‘Sundance’ is a welcome addition to any garden adding that bright splash of color in an otherwise dull and dreary time of year for our gardens.